Sealing a wooden fence means cleaning the wood, letting it dry fully, then coating it evenly along the grain with an exterior stain or sealer on a dry day between 40°F and 90°F.
A fence that’s left bare takes a beating from sun, rain, and frost, and the fix starts with one honest look at the boards. Rot, split rails, and flaking old finish all have to go before any sealer touches the wood, or the new coat peels off with the old one. The steps below follow the application specs for BEHR Solid Color House & Fence Wood Stain, a solid-color exterior coating made for fences and other vertical wood, so you can work from a known-good reference even if you buy a different brand.
Step 1: Check the Wood and Fix What’s Broken
Sound wood is the whole ballgame. Replace any board that’s rotten, split, loose, or structurally weak before you coat it, because a sealer only protects wood that’s already intact.
BEHR’s fence guidance includes a quick field test for bare wood: press a strip of cloth duct tape onto the surface and pull it off fast. If fibers or debris come up with the tape, the wood needs more prep. A clean pull means the surface is ready for the next stage. This stain is built for smooth or rough-sawn vertical wood — fences, siding, shingles, plywood, barns — and it should never go on horizontal surfaces that take foot traffic, like a deck floor.
Step 2: Strip Old Finish, Then Clean and Brighten
Failing coatings and fuzzy wood fibers get removed before cleaning. BEHR PREMIUM No. 64 Wood Stain & Finish Stripper handles loose wood fibers and failing latex, oil-based, or 100% acrylic coatings, and BEHR PREMIUM No. 63 All-In-One Wood Cleaner follows to clean, brighten, and neutralize the wood.
On new wood or a fence you didn’t strip, the No. 63 cleaner still earns its place. It removes mill glaze, opens the wood’s pores so the sealer can soak in, and lifts light-to-medium mold, mildew, algae, and fungus staining. Rinse thoroughly with a garden hose or a pressure washer.
If you use a pressure washer, keep the nozzle at least 24 inches from the wood and switch to the broadest spray pattern. A narrow tip held close gouges the grain and leaves a fuzzy mess that takes extra sanding to fix.
Step 3: Dry, Sand, and Pick Your Weather
Let the fence dry at least 24 hours after cleaning, then lightly sand any remaining fuzz. The surface has to be completely dry before coating — trapped moisture is what causes a fresh sealer to blister and flake.
Weather decides the rest. Apply only when the air is between 40°F and 90°F, stay out of direct sun and off hot surfaces, and don’t coat if rain is forecast within 24 hours.
Redwood, cedar, cypress, and other woods that bleed water-soluble extractives can discolor white or pastel finishes. For those colors, BEHR recommends one coat of an exterior stain-blocking primer/sealer first.
Step 4: Apply the Sealer Along the Grain
Work from the top of the fence down, following the grain, and back-brush as you go for even coverage. On rough-sawn or textured wood, use a 3/4-inch nap roller or a high-quality airless sprayer; a pump sprayer isn’t recommended for this product.
For airless spraying, the technical data sheet specifies a 0.015–0.019-inch tip and a 60-mesh filter at packaged consistency — and sprayed material needs immediate back-brushing or back-rolling. Don’t thin the product. Overapplication causes peeling and cracking, so keep coats thin. A second coat may be needed for complete hiding, applied thinner than the first and only after the first is thoroughly dry.
Not sure which product to buy? Our roundup of the best wooden fence sealer options compares formulas for different wood types and climates. Whichever sealer you choose, its label controls the final application requirements — the specs above are BEHR’s, and the full details live in the BEHR technical data sheet.
| Stage | What to Use | Key Number |
|---|---|---|
| Repair | Replace rotten, split, or loose boards | Duct-tape test on bare wood |
| Strip | BEHR PREMIUM No. 64 Stripper | For failing latex, oil, or acrylic |
| Clean | BEHR PREMIUM No. 63 Cleaner | Removes mill glaze and mildew |
| Pressure wash | Broadest spray pattern | Nozzle 24 inches from wood |
| Dry | Air dry, then sand fuzz | At least 24 hours |
| Weather | Apply in mild, dry conditions | 40–90°F, no rain for 24 hours |
| Spray setup | Airless sprayer | 0.015–0.019-inch tip, 60-mesh filter |
| Coats | Thin coats, back-brushed | Second coat thinner, after full dry |
Sources
- BEHR. “How to Stain a Fence” Covers grain direction and back-brushing technique.
- BEHR. “Technical Data Sheet: Solid Color House & Fence Wood Stain” Source for cleaning, drying, weather, and spray specifications.
- BEHR. “BEHR Barn and Fence Paint” Source for the duct-tape surface test on bare wood.
Common Questions
Can I Seal a Fence That Was Just Power-Washed?
Wait at least 24 hours first — longer in cool or humid weather. The wood has to be completely dry before any sealer goes on, because trapped moisture causes blistering and peeling. Press a hand to the surface; if it feels cool or damp, give it more time.
Do I Need to Sand the Whole Fence Before Sealing?
No. Sanding is only for spot-treating raised fibers and fuzz left after stripping or washing. A light pass with medium grit over rough spots is enough. The full surface just needs to be clean, dry, and sound.
What Happens If I Apply Sealer in Direct Sun?
The coating skins over too fast and won’t bond evenly, which leaves lap marks and weak spots. Work in shade or on an overcast day, and stay within the 40–90°F window. Hot boards are the most common cause of a streaky first coat.