6 Best 36 Volt Motor | Why 500W Beats 1000W On A Hill

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The lightest option here at 5.9 pounds, built to slot straight into one specific ride-on.

Compatibility is the entire story with this one. It is engineered for the Razor Crazy Cart XL, Versions 1 and up, and it comes with a mounting bracket and hardware plus two mounting holes on each front and rear face. That is a genuine bolt-on install with no extra parts to chase. Its aluminum body keeps the weight down to 5.9 pounds — against the D&D motor’s 51 pounds, it is a fraction of the mass, which matters on a ride-on you or a kid lifts and stores.

The 9-tooth sprocket handles power delivery, and the 36-volt, 500-watt output spins at 1550 rpm. That is about half the 3000 rpm of the MY1020 motor further down this list, and roughly half the 3100 rpm of the Kunray kit. For drifting manoeuvres on a Crazy Cart XL, lower RPM with a small sprocket is the right recipe — the speed you want here is controllable, not maximum.

Here is the catch, and it is a big one: it will not work with the Razor Crazy Cart, Crazy Cart DLX, Crazy Cart Shift, or Crazy Cart Shift Lightshow. Similar names, completely different fit. Double-check the model plate on your cart before ordering, because the XL tag is the whole ballgame. Note that this model has no approved review excerpt available, so the case for it rests on the published specs and the specified fit.

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The quiet hero for a dead Razor MX350 — it just bolts on and goes.

When a kid’s electric dirt bike stops running, most parents do not want a project. This MY1016 from L-faster weighs 2.61 kg and arrives with a mounting bracket, and owners keep confirming it drops right onto the Razor MX350. One buyer paired it with an MX650 speed controller and reported hitting 20 mph on a 13-tooth setup. Another used it to replace a motor that kept shutting off despite the battery reading correct voltage, and it ran perfectly after bolting on.

Worth knowing before you order: connecting the wires is not always plug-and-play. On one install the new unit’s wire terminals differed from the old motor, so the fix was cutting the old terminals and splicing them to the new motor. That is a ten-minute job with basic tools, and it is the kind of snag that catches people out simply because nobody mentions it.

It also is not a speed upgrade in disguise. One MX350 owner had over-volted the stock motor until it burnt out, then fitted this one and found it slightly slower — but with better durability to show for it. If you want outright speed, the MY1020 below spins at 3000 rpm against this motor’s modest output; if you want a reliable, inexpensive replacement that gets the bike running again, this is the one.

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Twice the watts of the Razor replacement and 3000 rpm of reversible grunt for mini quads and karts.

A 1000-watt brushed DC motor that spins at 3000 rpm and uses a 25H-11T chain drive. Against the AlveyTech’s 500 watts and 1550 rpm, this is double the power and roughly double the shaft speed — the jump in capability is obvious the moment it is wired up. It reverses, it suits mini quads, karts, and small bikes, and it is the kind of unit that makes a tired frame feel new again.

Two real-world caveats come through clearly. First, this thing is bigger than the stock motors people replace — one Jetson dirt bike owner found it nearly twice the size of the original despite only 250 more RPM, and had to move mount holes and adjust the chain to stop it rubbing. Second, it draws about 30 amps at full power under load, and the wiring really should be a heavier gauge than the stock leads. Plan for both before you start.

The rated current sits at 35.6 amps, so pack a controller that can actually feed it. One recurring question is capacitor sizing, since the motor’s capacitance is not published on the listing — worth a quick note to the seller if you plan to run a capacitor in line. Get the wiring right and this motor is heavy-duty and reliable; skimp on the gauge and you will be troubleshooting instead of riding.

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An 800-watt torque motor that keeps pulling a 230-pound load uphill without overheating.

Where the MY1020 chases top speed, this MOTOTPR motor is engineered for pulling. It is a brushed, permanent-magnet motor rated at 36 volts and 800 watts, spinning at 2800 rpm, and the design leans deliberately toward low speed with large torque — a speed-reduction motor, in the maker’s own words. The 11-tooth sprocket runs a #25 chain, making it a natural fit for DIY karts and trikes. For hills and heavy riders, torque is the number that counts, and this unit has it in spades.

The proof sits in the long-term reports. One build carried a 230-pound load up hills after a full year of use without overheating. Another put 27 mph on the clock with a 175-pound rider aboard. A third builder upgraded his son’s Razor MX350 from the stock 350-watt motor with the battery and controller already upgraded first, and found the torque gain significant even though top speed stayed around 20 mph on stock gearing.

Now the honest part: mounting is difficult. That same MX350 owner had no welder and had to bolt aluminum angle brackets into a tight space, which he described as tricky. Another builder on a 48-volt Razor quad found it was not bolt-on at all — it needed new holes drilled and different sprockets, running a T8F chain with a 54T sprocket and 9T pinion. There are no instructions in the box either. If you have fabrication experience, this motor rewards you; if you want a straight swap, look at the AlveyTech instead.

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A brushless 3100 rpm mid motor that arrives with the controller and throttle in the box.

This is the only brushless motor in this roundup, and that changes the equation. A brushless DC motor (BLDC) has no carbon brushes to wear down, and the maker points to a smaller, lighter body that runs more efficiently. It spins at 3100 rpm — the highest no-load figure in this group, ahead of the MY1020’s 3000 rpm and the MOTOTPR’s 2800 rpm — while weighing just 3.3 kg in an aluminum shell. It runs through a motor reversing wire or a handlebar switch to go clockwise or counterclockwise, with three speed settings at 50%, 70-80%, and 100%.

Buying a kit instead of a bare motor is the real appeal here. You get the 1000-watt motor, a 12-MOSFET 30-amp speed controller, a handlebar twist-grip throttle, a foot throttle, a power lock key, a T8F tooth plate ring, a T8F chain, and a three-speed switch. One builder converted an old pedal kart into an electric ride and called it easy to wire with strong power; another dropped it into an old Sears go-kart frame and hit roughly 25 mph with a 40-pound rider. It is a complete conversion in a box.

The friction is in the wiring and the documentation. Tagged controller wires are labeled, but the accessory wires are not, which slows assembly, and the English instructions are thin — most builders end up on a YouTube tutorial to sort out the light indicator and the two brake connectors. There is also no reverse option for karts, and the motor defaults to clockwise rotation. None of that is a dealbreaker for a patient DIY builder, but it is real work the first evening.